Black Cod in Sicilian Olive Sauce (Merluzzo Nero alla Olive Ghiotta)

Black Cod in Sicilian Olive Sauce

I went to Sicily.  Give me a second, I just want to read that last sentence and breathe deeply.

 

Yeah, I went to Sicily.  Wow.  First, the food - as you've probably heard before- amazing. Second, the people were so friendly.  They were so open.  They were so patient while I mangled the Italian language.

There was inspiration everywhere I visited and I covered a lot of country.  My husband and I are thankfully alike in wanting to see as much as possible on vacation.

 

We never stop.  It's upsetting to many of the hotel, apartment and agriturismo owners that we meet in Europe. They always ask, "why do you stay only one night, why not stay more, relax?"  They often look hurt that we aren't soaking in their lovely city and homes for longer. I love them for that spirit.  It's just not how we're engineered.  We want to see it all, do it all and we only have a limited time, so it's go, go, GO.

 

The upside is we eat at a lot of different places and experience classic and modern takes on their traditional dishes. Then I return with ideas and passion for creating them myself.

One of the terms used a lot in Sicily was "ghiotta" [ghee-OH-tah.]

There was Pesce alla Ghiotta, and Tonno alla Ghiotta, and even Panna Cotta alla Ghiotta.  At first I thought it just meant a well-known Sicilian collection of tomatoes, olives and capers (sometimes with raisins thrown in, too.)  After returning to the States and asking my fav Italian teacher (Lorena Bignamini) and a scholarly buddy that teaches Italian at UCLA (Erika) about the word, "ghiotta", I'm ready to pass along these really fun facts:

** Ghiotto and Ghiotta are adjectives that can mean curiosity or interest in something scrumptious.

** It can also mean gluttonous person, but in Italian it means in a good way.

** Our literal translation could mean glutton, but in Italian it's only positive - meaning something like a person really liking something.  Lorena said you could be "ghiotta di Nutella, ghiotto di proschiutto, ghiotta di dulce and on and on.."

** If someone is a "ghiottone" it means they really appreciate food, like a gourmand, or a foodie (yay!) Although literally in our language it means a little wolverine.  Hahaha.

I've decided the best way to remember this is to think of our slang "Gaga" for something.  If you are "Ghiotta" for something you are "Gaga" for it.  Capisce?

Sicily, having a history of being owned by so many different countries along the way, is a mixture of Arab, Africa, Greek, French, Italian and many other influences.

 

A meal may have olives in one dish and cinnamon in the next.  Sweet pastries are combined with savory spices, sausages are soaked in onions one dish, and fruits the next.  The country is covered in rolling hills, but dotted with palm trees too.

 

A city may be buzzing with commerce and just outside of it looms the ruins of a Greek temple built before Christ.

But, this is definitely Italy and almost every hillside has olive trees and every table a bottle of wine.

One of the "ghiotta" dishes that inspired me was enjoyed in Palermo at Trattoria Biondo.

Just before I left for Sicily, the sweet folks at Lindsay Olives sent me a few cans and jars of their Natural and Sicilian collection of olives.

It was wonderful timing and I was excited to return and play with my food (what a Ghiottone, huh?)

I'm using Black Cod because it's so easy to cook with and a good sustainable choice.  I'm using two different kinds of Lindsay Olives for a very full flavored sauce.  I minced the black olives to use instead of capers for a really nice tang and balance to the fish.

Until you or I get to return to Sicily, I hope you'll visit through your kitchen with this recipe:



Black Cod in a Sicilian Olive Sauce- (Merluzzo Nero in Olive Ghiotta)

1 Fillet Black Cod (cut into large pieces)
1 small Onion (cut in thin slices)
3 Garlic Cloves (peeled and smashed)
Olive Oil
1/2 Cup White Wine
2 large Tomatoes (cut in chunks or 6 strawberry tomatoes halved)
2-3 Cups Tomato Passata (Tomato Puree or Stock)
1 cup Lindsay Black Natural Olives (drained and minced)
1 cup Lindsay Sicilian Olives (drained and hand torn)
1/2 cup Fresh Parsley (chopped)
1/4 cup Fresh Basil (chopped)
salt/pepper
*Crushed Pistachios for garnish*

1)  In a large pot, add a nice layer of Olive Oil to the bottom and heat on Med.
2)  Add onions and garlic and cook gently until soft (about 8 mins.) ** optionally a few slices of slivered Fennel is delicious, too**
3)  Add the White wine and continue to cook down for about 10 mins.
4)  Place the Fish pieces in a single layer on top of the onions. Sprinkle in the minced Olives. Hand tear the Sicilian Olives and distribute those in the pot also.
5) Add the Tomatoes, Parsley, Basil and season with salt and pepper.

6)  Pour in the Tomato Passata. Increase heat just til it simmers, then cover and reduce heat to low.  Cook for about 30 minutes.  Now and then, gently stir a bit and move fish around to cook evenly.
7) Remove Fish, ladle sauce into bowls, then top with Fish and garnish with Pistachios.

Chef Becky Selengut (author of GOOD FISH) gave this buying tip for Black Cod (also known as Sable Fish): Buy pieces that are center cut rather than tail because it's thicker and more resistant to over cooking.

10 Minute Roasted Hummus - Simple Saturday

10 Minute Roasted Hummus

Hummus is the Arabic word for chick peas, which is translated in Spanish to garbanzo beans, which in Italian is Cece beans - and all of them can be pureed with spices to make a darn good dip or spread. One of the fantastic things about cooking (and Mediterranean cooking is no exception) is how personal you can make it. As long as the technique is there, the flavors are completely up to the taster. Hummus, which is also called hamos, hommos, hommus, homos, houmous, hummos, hummous, or humus (whew!) can be made smooth and earthy with the addition of tahini (sesame) paste, or spicy and chunky with peppers and veggies. The Simple Saturday recipe today keeps it fast and clean-up to a minimum. You roast the drained can of garbanzo beans (chick peas) on a parchment lined sheet pan along with the minced garlic and spices. Pour it all into a food processor and blend it with olive oil. That's it. Done and delish!

1) Drain one can of Garbanzo Beans (may be labeled Chick Peas).2) Pour them onto a parchment lined baking sheet and add a few minced garlic cloves, a pinch of red pepper flakes, cumin and dried thyme (you can also vary this to your tasting.) Squeeze a half lemon over the whole pan.

3) Stir it all together, then drizzle with Olive oil and place into a preheated 350F oven for TEN (10) MINUTES (you can vary the time if you'd like a more toasty flavor, but don't burn them.)

4) Remove from the oven and allow to cool for a few minutes. Using the parchment paper, lift it all up and pour into a food processor. Pulse a few times, then while the processor is on puree, carefully pour in 1/4 - 1/2 cup Olive oil. Check during the process to see if it's to your desire. Taste and season with salt and pepper, and maybe more lemon if needed.


Hummus can be served in little individual shooters with thin carrot sticks or other veggies for an elegant service...

Or put into a casual dish and served with crackers or flat bread.

Breadless Grilled Cheese Sandwich - Halloumi

Sometimes the only thing better than a grilled cheese sandwich, is a sandwich with grilled cheese. What the halloumi?

Breadless Grilled Cheese Sandwich
(Halloumi Cheese with Honey Crisp Apples & Bacon)

Halloumi is a goat and sheep's milk cheese, originally and traditionally made in Cyprus (an island in the Mediterranean Sea). It can be pan fried, grilled and roasted without melting. Instead, it gives you a full flavored, tangy, rich grilled cheese taste that has body and even while it's warm - you can stick a toothpick in it.
Most of the time, I've seen it sold in packages with brine (like Mozzarella) to keep it fresh. It comes in a block or round form and can be sliced, cubed, or crumbled. It makes a surprising little gift on skewers with roasted vegetables and in salads instead of croutons.
There is a movement to help keep Halloumi cheese as a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheese, like Parmigiano Reggiano. Then it would most likely be made only in Cyprus or places so designated and by traditional methods. The hope is to protect Halloumi cheese from being made of Cow's milk, or deluded and sold cheaper by mass producing it with lesser quality ingredients.
Get your cheese hats on (not cheesy hats, we all own a few of those) and start thinking of ways to use this exciting and fun grill-able cheese. My teen son was caught popping the grilled cubes into his mouth like (or instead of, hopefully) candy. Can they sell halloumi that way; known to slow down teens long enough to actually eat well?

OH, and one more thing: today's Halloumi Breadless Grilled Cheese is part of my Let's Lunch Bunch group. So, talking about cheese....go visit their "Grilled Cheese for Lunch" posts and you'll be drooling at your computer/phone/ipad for sure!

A Tiger In The Kitchen - Cheddar/Blue w/ Asian Pears and Rosemary Honey
Cowgirl Chef - Brie, Pears and Proscuitto
Free Range Cookies - Oven Grilled Cheese Sandwich
Blog Well Done - Grilled Colby, Ham and Pickles
Bon Vivant - Mousetrap (Cheese, tomatoes, peppers and bacon)
and give a welcome to our newest -
Emma at Dreaming of Pots and Pans - Smoked Gouda and Truffle Oil!

RECIPE: Grilled Halloumi with Honey Crisp Apples, Arugula and Bacon

Slice the Halloumi cheese into 1/2 inch thickness and drain on towel.
Heat a grill pan on Med/High with a small drizzle of olive oil
When the grill pan is hot, place the cheese slices down and remain undisturbed for about 3-5 minutes. Turn and repeat for other side. Remove cheese slices and allow to cool for a few minutes, but compose the sandwiches while the cheese is warm. It helps hold the ingredients together.

Cut triangles or desired shapes before composing sandwiches.
Cut apples in half, then into thin slices (you may sprinkle with a touch of lemon juice to preserve color)
Compose sandwich with apple slices, bacon and arugula (or other crunchy, not too sweet green.)

Stuffed and Leaving - Grape and Chard Leaves - Daring Cooks

I wonder who first thought of stuffing food into other food. It's brilliant. It's convenient. It's beautiful.

Dolmas (Stuffed Grape Leaves)
with Rice, Mushrooms, Figs and PinenutsOur October 2010 hostess, Lori of Lori’s Lipsmacking Goodness, has challenged The Daring Cooks to stuff grape leaves. Lori chose a recipe from Aromas of Aleppo and a recipe from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food.

At the end of my post, I'll give you the recipes for the fillings that Lori included, but the one I used was my own "follow your tastebuds" kinda deal. Now, if you haven't stuffed grape leaves before, don't squirm or dismiss the idea out right. If you can roll up a towel, you can make this. And if you can't find, or you're not interested in grape leaves, kale or chard work great. This is a fun way to make iron and mineral loaded vegetables even more attractive (including to children.) Words and Research:
Dolma is from the Turkish verb - Dolmak, which means to stuff and is usually referring to any stuffed vegetable like eggplant, cucumber, peppers, etc..
Sarma is from the Turkish verb - Sarmak, which means to wrap and is usually referring to anything wrapped in leaves like grape, lettuces, vine leaves, etc. These words are now often interchangeable depending on the country or area. There are stuffed vegetables and stuffed leaves in many countries from Iran, Turkey, Greece to Southern Asia. Grape leaves can be found in grocery stores with ethnic, especially Mediterranean sections. I was surprised to find out that even in my Whole Foods store right here in Los Angeles, California - I could NOT find them.

I could get already made and stuffed in the canned section, the hot foods section and the chilled sections, but NO leaves. I decided Chard would be fun, and then right there in the produce I spied a table heaped with organic grapes that had many leaves attached. I carefully picked a small bunch that had several good leaves (and ok, maybe I took a few more leaves from the other bunches, but I added them to the bag before being weighed.)After washing the leaves, I plunged them in boiling water a few times to soften them and I drained them on clean towels. For the Chard (look how beautiful those greens with the purple/red spines look), I plunged the leaves into boiling water once and drained. Handle them carefully, but you can use pieces to repair any torn parts.I wanted a vegan/vegetarian filling that was full of flavor. I chose to use a cup of short grain rice that I covered in boiling water for 30 minutes, then drained.

I added it to a handful of chopped mushrooms, a few dried figs chopped up, a small shallot minced, and a pinch of salt, pepper, cinnamon and allspice.

I put all of those in a small skillet with a drizzle of olive oil and heated it on med/high just til everything was warmed up. This helps hold the ingredients together for rolling up in the leaves. I let it cool to slightly warm before using.Place a spoonful of the filling on the lower part of a leaf. Roll the bottom over the filling, then turn the sides in as you continue rolling the rest of the way up.When the rolls are finished, drizzle olive oil into a skillet and place the filled leaves on top of the oil and separate some of them with a few dried apricots. Cover and heat on Med. for 5-8 minutes until the grape leaves look glossy or sweat a bit.
In a bowl mix together: one cup water with 1/3 cup olive oil and 1/4 cup lemon juice. Pour the mixture into the skillet with the dolmas, cover and simmer on low for 30-40 minutes. Gently pour the dolmas out onto a platter or very gently scoop them up. These can be served warm, room temp, or chilled. Preserved lemons or yogurt is a great garnish and dip to serve along side.
Recipes given for Dolmas:
Grape Leaves Stuffed with Ground Meat and Rice with Apricot Tamarind Sauce/ Yebra
Adapted from Aromas of Aleppo by Poopa Dweck and Michael J. Cohen. Published by Harper Collins, 2007

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Ingredients for hashu/filling:

1 pound (455 gm) ground (minced) beef
1/3 cup (80 ml) (2 1/3 oz) (65 gm) short grain rice
1 teaspoon (5 ml) (6 gm) all spice
2 tablespoons (30 ml) vegetable oil
1 teaspoon (5 ml) (6 gm) cinnamon
1 teaspoon (5 ml) (3 gm) kosher (coarse) salt **if using regular table salt only use ½ tsp.**
¼ teaspoon (1¼ ml) (1½ gm) white pepper
1 onion, chopped **optional**
1 cup (5½ oz) (150 gm) pine nuts **optional**

Directions:

1.Soak rice in water, enough to cover, for 30 minutes. Combine meat, rice, allspice, vegetable oil, cinnamon, salt, white pepper, and if desired, onion and pine nuts, in a large mixing bowl. Mix well.

Ingredients for assembly:

1 pound (455 gm) hashu/filling (see recipe above)
36 preserved grape leaves, stems trimmed, drained, rinsed and patted dry
1 tablespoon (15 ml) vegetable oil
6 dried apricots – or more if you desire
3 tablespoons (45 ml) tamarind concentrate **if you can’t find it, you can omit it**
¼ cup (60 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon (15 ml) (9 gm) kosher (coarse) salt **if using regular table salt only use 1.5 tsp.**

Notes:

If using grape leaves preserved in brine, to remove salt put them in a bowl and pour boiling water over them. Make sure that the water penetrates well between the layers, and leave them soaking for about twenty minutes, then change the water a time or two using fresh cold water.

If using fresh leaves, plunge a few at a time in boiling water for a few seconds only, until they become limp, and lift them out.

Tamarind is actually fairly easy to find. There is a paste that is in package already made up. You can find it at Asian, Mexican or Indian grocers. You can also find the pods (a little more difficult) and make it yourself. It is akin to a sweet/tangy tea flavor. If you can’t find it, you can skip the sauce all togheter. The grape leaves will be just as delicious without the sauce. But we hope that those that can find it will use it.

Directions:

1.Place a grape leaf on a flat surface, vein side up. You can trim the little stem if you would like.

2.Place about two teaspoons (10 ml) of the filling in the center of the leaf, near the stem edge.

3.Roll the leaf end to end, starting from the stem edge. As you roll, fold the sides of the leaf in toward the center. The leaf should resemble a small cigar, about 2 to 2 1/2 inches (50 mm to 65mm) long.

4.Repeat with the remaining leaves and filling.

a.(You can freeze the stuffed grape leaves at this point. Just line a baking sheet with wax paper. When firmly frozen, transfer to an airtight plastic bag place back in the freezer.)

5.In a medium saucepan put in the vegetable oil and then place the filled grape leaves in the pot.

6.Place apricots in between the stuffed grape leaves. Cover and cook over low heat for 5- 8 minutes or until the grape leaves begin to sweat.

7.Using all three tablespoons, place a little of the tamarind concentrate, if using, over the rolls.

8.Combine lemon juice, salt, and water then add to pan, filling it ¾ full.

9.Weigh down the grape leaves with a heat proof plate or board to prevent them from unraveling. Cover and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 40 minutes.

a.Alternatively, place the saucepan in an oven preheated to moderate 350°F/180°C/gas mark 4 and cook for an hour.

10.Spoon cooking liquid over the grape leaves occasionally. You will know they are done, when the grape leaves are neither soupy nor dry.

11.Tilt pan sideways over serving platter, allowing the grape leaves to tumble out. Try not to handle them individually to reduce unraveling.

a.Alternately you can try spooning them out very gently.

Amazing Mezze: Daring Cooks February 2010

If you're like me: one of those people who can't answer any question that starts with, "What is your one and only favorite...?", then you will love MEZZE. It's a way of eating, it's a bunch of different tidbits of flavor, it's a party on a platter!

MEDITERRANEAN MEZZE w/
Pita, Hummus, Curry Cauliflower, and Marinated Olives

The 2010 February Daring COOKs challenge was hosted by Michele of Veggie Num Nums. Michele chose to challenge everyone to make mezze based on various recipes from Claudia Roden, Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Dugid.

The word, Mezze, is used in Middle Eastern dining, and usually comes before a larger meal like: Appetizers, Tapas, Dim Sum, Hors d'Oeuvres and Antipasti. There could be as many as 50 different small servings that make up a Mezze course - or just a couple. Very often it will include Pita Bread and Hummus. "Mezze" has become a sort of trendy term to use in restaurant names across the country in the last few years, too.

I was visiting my Mom, Brother, and his wife in North Carolina when I made my Mezze platter for this challenge. We got snowed in for 3 days and luckily I had already bought all the ingredients. Having mezze was a perfect way to sit around, chat, graze,watch the snow fall, laugh, eat some more, play a board game, and nibble some more. The lighting was not so great for photos inside, but you get the feel: cozy, golden and casual.
The Pita recipe is easy, the hummus couldn't be quicker, and the cauliflower takes no time at all. The olives I had added to some spiced up olive oil earlier in the day, so we never missed a beat chattering away even while I was putting the Mezze platter together. There are a gazillion recipes online for different Mezze and even a helpful YouTube video on making Pita right here.

Quote from my Brother - (with a mouthful of Pita and hummus, giving me a big OKAY sign, then..) "Is there garlic in this, I mean it's the perfect amount, seriously good."
Pita Bread – Recipe adapted from Flatbreads & Flavors by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid

Prep time: 20 minutes to make, 90 minutes to rise and about 45 minutes to cook

2 teaspoons regular dry yeast (.43 ounces/12.1 grams)
2.5 cups lukewarm water (21 ounces/591 grams)
5-6 cups all-purpose flour (may use a combination of 50% whole wheat and 50% all-purpose, or a combination of alternative flours for gluten free pita) (17.5 -21 ounces/497-596 grams)
1 tablespoon table salt (.50 ounces/15 grams)
2 tablespoons olive oil (.95 ounces/29 ml)

Directions:
1. In a large bread bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water. Stir to dissolve. Stir in 3 cups flour, a cup at a time, and then stir 100 times, about 1 minute, in the same direction to activate the gluten. Let this sponge rest for at least 10 minutes, or as long as 2 hours.

2. Sprinkle the salt over the sponge and stir in the olive oil. Mix well. Add more flour, a cup at a time, until the dough is too stiff to stir. Turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 8 to 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Rinse out the bowl, dry, and lightly oil. Return the dough to the bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise until at least doubled in size, approximately 1 1/2 hours.
3. Place a pizza stone, or two small baking sheets, on the bottom rack of your oven, leaving a 1-inch gap all around between the stone or sheets and the oven walls to allow heat to circulate. Preheat the oven to 450F (230C).
4. Gently punch down the dough. Divide the dough in half, and then set half aside, covered, while you work with the rest. Divide the other half into 8 equal pieces and flatten each piece with lightly floured hands. Roll out each piece to a circle 8 to 9 inches in diameter and less than 1/4 inch thick. Keep the rolled-out breads covered until ready to bake, but do not stack.
5. Place 2 breads, or more if your oven is large enough, on the stone or baking sheets, and bake for 2 to 3 minutes, or until each bread has gone into a full balloon. If for some reason your bread doesn't puff up, don't worry it should still taste delicious. Wrap the baked breads together in a large kitchen towel to keep them warm and soft while you bake the remaining rolled-out breads. Then repeat with the rest of the dough.

Hummus – Recipe adapted from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food by Claudia Roden
Prep Time: Hummus can be made in about 15 minutes once the beans are cooked. If you’re using dried beans you need to soak them overnight and then cook them the next day which takes about 90 minutes.

1.5 cups dried chickpeas, soaked in cold water overnight (or substitute well drained canned chickpeas and omit the cooking) (10 ounces/301 grams)
2-2.5 lemons, juiced (3 ounces/89ml)
2-3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
a big pinch of salt
4 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste) OR use peanut butter or any other nut butter—feel free to experiment) (1.5 ounces/45 grams)
additional flavorings (optional) I would use about 1/3 cup or a few ounces to start, and add more to taste

Directions:
1. Drain and boil the soaked chickpeas in fresh water for about 1 ½ hours, or until tender. Drain, but reserve the cooking liquid.
2. Puree the beans in a food processor (or you can use a potato masher) adding the cooking water as needed until you have a smooth paste.
3. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well. Adjust the seasonings to taste.

Curry Cauliflower:

Wash and trim Cauliflower. Place buds in a single layer on a baking sheet. Sprinkle Salt and Pepper, then drizzle with Olive Oil. Place in oven preheated to 350F for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with your favorite Curry or Curry blend and squeeze a fresh lemon over the pan of curry. Toss gently and continue to cook for about 10 more minutes. *Optionally, toss in a few sprigs of fresh cilantro in the last 10 minutes.What would YOU add to this? Got a favorite one? I also LOVE the eggplant spreads.